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  2. me again Alexa Chung fashion detective
  3. delving deep behind the seams was a pun
  4. to show you the truth about the fashion
  5. industry and the amazing people who work
  6. in it in this episode I'm finding out
  7. what a trend forecaster is and trying
  8. not to steal things from Portsmouth
  9. having kept his classic brand relevant
  10. for over 45 years
  11. Paul Smith has exceeded where many
  12. others have failed so people in fashion
  13. are really sane at business HQ in Covent
  14. Garden a young and talented team work
  15. under the ever enthusiastic guidance of
  16. the man himself driving the brand
  17. forward into a bright future
  18. what is this room then this is spring
  19. spring next year men's clothes and
  20. accessories I love this but not that
  21. know that
  22. that's my job that's my job please this
  23. is my suit to travel Rafa it makes me
  24. want to be a boy check our bags on the
  25. way out the Ahtna from my garden are
  26. they yeah I want to be racing artists
  27. right yeah and it never happened because
  28. I had a bad crash and then I ended up
  29. meeting people from the art school in
  30. Nottingham and then I worked as a shop
  31. assistant and then I met a lady who
  32. became my girlfriend and now my wife and
  33. she trained at the Royal College of Art
  34. I mean couture fashion right and so that
  35. was fantastic so my teaching was a home
  36. on the kitchen table yeah
  37. how to cut a pattern how to you know put
  38. a sleeve in and the importance of cotton
  39. shape and 21s or Sandler on the first
  40. the first smoking suit when they walked
  41. on and went like that and there was
  42. little boobies underneath and it was
  43. like hmm because it was very you know
  44. shocking at time we started a little
  45. collection I mean little really really
  46. two jackets for shirts for men to start
  47. with and then about 20 years ago for
  48. women people refer to in Portsmouth is
  49. brandon okes this bit weird for me yeah
  50. yeah I think well yeah my brand yeah
  51. yeah he's written me Underpants but yeah
  52. well I'm my watch actually the young
  53. people approach you and ask your advice
  54. all the time yeah well what do they want
  55. to know when I walk around the building
  56. with the lightness students that you
  57. know I said first of all you all might
  58. want to be designers but in a way get
  59. that out of your head right because as
  60. you are and the Builder I'm going to
  61. show you lots of lovely jobs you can do
  62. yeah with that skip this buying this
  63. press there's social media and there's
  64. shop design the styling this management
  65. there is so many great jobs you can get
  66. if you go through that fashion system
  67. yeah and they're still creative you're
  68. still like oh you're great yeah
  69. yeah very creative part of your success
  70. has been down to the fact that you've
  71. always embraced the new and you know
  72. you've moved along with the times but is
  73. that something that just comes naturally
  74. to you as a person being excited about
  75. yeah I'm very curious person whereas a
  76. lot of people I think they start their
  77. leave University or college and then
  78. they have this look and then it goes on
  79. and on and unfortunately a lot of them
  80. don't really change from it and then
  81. that's when it starts to get difficult
  82. but grind know fashion is about today
  83. and tomorrow you've never made it make
  84. something I've always liked the idea of
  85. being a buyer getting paid to shop for
  86. someone else's credit card sounds like a
  87. pretty amazing job to me our Google
  88. results suggested it is now one of the
  89. most desirable positions within fashion
  90. but what is it that these mysterious
  91. people actually do as selvages Oxford
  92. Street store
  93. Judd Crain is living the dream as
  94. director of women's wear and accessories
  95. obsessive clothes problem you can
  96. suggest things for me to buy and I'll
  97. tell you I can't afford them is this in
  98. the sale be honest no it's brand-new I
  99. just love everything I just love it it's
  100. been a mystery to me what your job is
  101. can you explain what you do well I guess
  102. it at a very basic level we just see
  103. things we love and we buy them so that
  104. other people can buy them and then how
  105. do you decide which brands go next to
  106. the other one do they have rules where
  107. some brands might want to sit alongside
  108. another competitor well everyone has
  109. ideas of where they want to be but
  110. ultimately what we're interested in is
  111. creating an environment for the customer
  112. so a lot of times we challenge our
  113. brands to really think differently about
  114. how they could be portrayed we're a
  115. store that has Chanel just directly
  116. across for Rick Owens which you don't
  117. really see in other
  118. yeah for us the idea of putting those
  119. two together is that we actually find it
  120. stimulates both of those customers I
  121. actually think the best way to gain
  122. experience to be a good buyer is to not
  123. become a buyer directly you know I think
  124. to have a background in visual
  125. merchandising or a background I'm
  126. actually working with customers we have
  127. a few buyers that have come from
  128. personal shopping because because they
  129. actually get really really close to what
  130. customers want especially my dream job
  131. isn't actually my tasting things isn't
  132. reflective of what sells that's a really
  133. interesting thing about it is it's
  134. really interesting to try to force
  135. yourself to be objective yeah because it
  136. kind of has nothing to do with what you
  137. want to wear what would my itself
  138. however I think it's so important to
  139. have that thing that just hits you
  140. emotionally yeah because it will hit
  141. other people too you're touching on what
  142. we're talking about in a broader sense
  143. which is that fashion has a reputation
  144. for being like the shallow and all about
  145. image and deliver actually when you get
  146. to it the reason people are interested
  147. in the reason people have jobs within
  148. this industry is because it is emotional
  149. for awareness but identity it's like
  150. they feel it's about creating episode
  151. and I think it's really an art form for
  152. some people and you're kind of like
  153. expressing things that that are
  154. intrinsically personal
  155. these are people's lives he's a second
  156. when innovative thinking and technology
  157. combine new industries are born that
  158. changed the face of fashion forever and
  159. in the late 90s trend forecasting did
  160. exactly that global powerhouse WGSN
  161. pioneered the market turning the
  162. potential trends of the future into a
  163. highly valuable commodity hello once
  164. again masses essentially what we're
  165. doing is trend forecasting so we are
  166. going around the world looking at all
  167. sorts of cultural influences from street
  168. fashion talks going on in food colors
  169. whatever it may be collecting all of
  170. that information presenting it to our
  171. customers and using that to kind of set
  172. a backdrop for how fashion will develop
  173. in the future because all of those
  174. things influence the way people want to
  175. dress so essentially it's a website yeah
  176. and we have you know several thousand
  177. brands around the world that subscribe
  178. to our website and they all use it in
  179. many and varied ways and they're looking
  180. at fashion trends so we dislike we are
  181. after designing fashion collections and
  182. they're looking at that they're looking
  183. at catwalks they're looking at street
  184. fashion they're looking at retail trends
  185. we go around the world and look at
  186. what's going on in shops and explain
  187. that to people it's a really enormous
  188. resource for fashion if I'm thinking
  189. about what's about to happen or how I'd
  190. like to get dressed and anything that
  191. makes you feel a bit sick or it weird is
  192. something that I am drawn to and then
  193. that's usually because it's different to
  194. what I'm accustomed to often with a
  195. Christopher cane collection I don't know
  196. why him in particular but it'll come
  197. down I'd be like I mean I can appreciate
  198. that it's great but I don't necessarily
  199. want to wear it yet and then suddenly
  200. when that season rolls around yeah I
  201. think it's so perfect for how I feel in
  202. time it's clever like that I have
  203. sometimes I look at some of the things
  204. that we do and just think are we sure
  205. that is yeah but you just them because
  206. actually at the time that it's ready to
  207. drop you're ready for it you know a new
  208. thing
  209. oh no I'm there right so I feel like
  210. wearing that you know it's interesting
  211. this and this is men's trends it's men's
  212. trend
  213. Oh when's spring/summer 17 oh my god
  214. okay yeah and so where do you collect
  215. ideas from everywhere really it's not
  216. just like one specific area we go to we
  217. look across the boards it's not just
  218. fashion it's like what influences
  219. fashion as well as I can use a core
  220. subcultures or it girls it goes films
  221. like you said earlier the biggest
  222. influence on this is Palestine with Cuba
  223. the fattiness oh right yeah yeah and
  224. obviously there's a huge influx of
  225. tourism to Chiquita so then when you see
  226. that type of influence on or in shops
  227. and in you know the world does she go
  228. are you cut you the crown yeah yeah cool
  229. Cuba this is Sam who is the denim good
  230. to me
  231. so like the denim - your Mouse's right
  232. so you're responsible for compiling this
  233. entire yeah everything from like retail
  234. I do through to like catwalks what we're
  235. doing right now is that the men's SS 16
  236. ones we do trade shows street style
  237. something get designers up there looking
  238. around another part see like the whip
  239. Internet as well we're doing that like
  240. specifically for each category so I'm
  241. looking at everything denim across like
  242. Instagram like Pinterest tumblers and
  243. I'm always looking for new brands still
  244. at business mischief I'd put them like
  245. on the blog as well which is like that
  246. looks like so it's not just like you'd
  247. out of subscription to that and then I
  248. do like an interview of the brand as
  249. well it's try and give them like some
  250. space yes very good okay Rosella feel
  251. yeah but there's no way at school I
  252. would have known that this was a job
  253. option it is so fun do you take interns
  254. crashing used to be really top down it
  255. is to be whatever somebody in Paris said
  256. it was man was what it was you know and
  257. now you know it is kids on the street is
  258. that from social media as well as it is
  259. in there and they are much more
  260. influenced peer to peer than they would
  261. be from what any coach or designer would
  262. tell them you know you are important
  263. what their mates think it's harder to be
  264. there underground because there's always
  265. somebody you know communicating that and
  266. tweeting and instagramming it whatever
  267. it is yeah gets out there much quicker
  268. to the influence spreads much but then
  269. does that lend itself to the fashion
  270. industry kind of moving into a more
  271. do-it-yourself
  272. yeah like a DIY situation rather than it
  273. being this elitist thing is do you think
  274. it's an opportunity for people to kind
  275. of - I homegrown I think that's
  276. absolutely right and we were just
  277. talking matter that it's almost DIY life
  278. right now you know if people much
  279. younger than me you know when I was
  280. growing up you had to get your degree
  281. and people were just sort of shoving you
  282. in the direction where you had to kind
  283. of go to a big organization and get a
  284. proper job and then people were telling
  285. you how to dress it doesn't work like
  286. that now you know people don't feel the
  287. same constraints they will decide create
  288. their own careers and that might be
  289. online they might be bloggers they might
  290. have a little shop online they might
  291. create their own fashion career there
  292. are music and they've got means of
  293. communicating that to other people that
  294. we've just not open to us and you're
  295. seeing all these new and interesting
  296. designers coming at a real change of
  297. guard I think at the moment and I think
  298. that maybe we'll be looking back and
  299. thinking that was when that started
  300. I can't count but I think that was
  301. episode for being late to watch episode
  302. five subscribe to the British Vogue
  303. YouTube channel and it will be laid out
  304. for you just have to go as a click thing
  305. using that next I head to Paris to talk
  306. film with the creator of Dior and I and
  307. meet the minds behind two unique prozium
  308. brands also it was an opportunity to eat
  309. croissants Subtitles End:
Posted by: Olive


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